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Gallery Wall Planner: Frame Layout & Hook Positions

Plan a gallery wall with the right spacing and height. Enter your wall and frame sizes to get a balanced layout and the exact hook positions, then print the plan.

Enter your wall and your frame sizes to get a balanced layout, the exact hook positions and a plan you can print.

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Tell the planner how wide and tall your wall is, whether the art will hang above a sofa, console or bed, and the outside size of each frame. It arranges your frames, centres the group, and gives you the exact position of every hook, measured from the left edge of the wall and up from the floor. You can print the plan and take it to the wall.

  • Mixed sizes: list each frame size and how many of it you have. The planner packs them into tidy rows, with the biggest frames first.
  • Even grid: for a set of identical frames, choose the number of columns and rows.
  • Wire drop: this is how far below the top of the frame the hook sits when the wire is pulled tight, usually 1.5 to 3 in. The hook heights already take it into account.
Rule What it means
Eye level On an open wall, hang the centre of the whole arrangement 57 to 60 in (145 to 152 cm) from the floor. Galleries use 57 in as the standard.
Above furniture Leave 6 to 10 in (15 to 25 cm) between the top of the sofa, console or headboard and the bottom of the art.
Width Make the art about two thirds to three quarters of the width of the furniture below it.
Spacing Keep 2 to 3 in (5 to 8 cm) between frames. Equal gaps make a mixed set look intentional.
Wall edges Leave at least 6 in (15 cm) of wall at each side of the group, so it does not look crowded.
  1. Measure the outside size of each frame, including the frame itself, not just the picture.
  2. Enter the measurements and arrange the frames in the planner. Adjust the gap or the frame list until the layout looks balanced.
  3. Print the plan. Mark the hook positions on the wall in pencil, measuring from the left edge of the wall and from the floor.
  4. Start with the largest or middle frame, since the rest of the layout is spaced from it.
  5. Check each frame with a level before you move on to the next one.
  6. Use a wall anchor or stud for heavy frames and mirrors. A light picture hook is not safe for a heavy frame.

For an extra check, trace each frame on kraft paper, cut the shapes out and stick them to the wall with painter’s tape before you make any holes.

Worked examples

Above a sofa on a 10 ft wall

A wall 120 in wide with a 96 in ceiling, an 84 in sofa that is 34 in tall, and six frames: one 16 × 20 in, two 11 × 14 in and three 8 × 10 in. With a 2 in gap and the art 8 in above the sofa, the arrangement is 52 in wide and 32 in tall. It sits 42 in from the floor at the bottom and is centred at 58 in, right at eye level. That leaves 34 in of wall at each side, and the art is 62% of the width of the sofa. The 16 × 20 in frame’s hook goes 42 in from the left edge of the wall and 72 in from the floor.

A grid on an open wall

Six 11 × 14 in frames in three columns and two rows, with a 2 in gap, make a block 37 in wide and 30 in tall. Centred at 57 in from the floor on a 96 in wall, the hooks for the top row sit 70 in from the floor, 35, 48 and 61 in from the left edge of the wall.

  • Hanging too high. The most common mistake. Art centred above eye level feels disconnected from the room.
  • Too small above the furniture. A small group above a large sofa looks lost. Aim for two thirds of the sofa’s width.
  • Uneven gaps. Even small differences show up in a tight arrangement. Measure every gap.
  • Forgetting the wire. The hook goes lower than the top of the frame. Measure from the hook, not the frame edge.
  • Making holes first. Plan on paper or with tape on the wall before you pick up the hammer.
  • Pick a common thread, such as frame colour, a mat colour or a single subject, so mixed sizes look curated.
  • Mix a few large frames with several small ones. A group of same-size frames in a grid is a more formal look.
  • Put the heaviest or darkest piece slightly below the centre so the group feels grounded.
  • Use removable strips for light frames in a rental, and keep a few spare hooks.
  • Leave room to add one or two more frames later.

Frequently asked questions

How high should I hang a gallery wall?

Hang the centre of the whole arrangement 57 to 60 inches (145 to 152 cm) from the floor, which is average eye level. Above a sofa or console, leave 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) between the furniture and the bottom of the art instead.

How far apart should frames be on a gallery wall?

Keep 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) between frames. Tighter spacing looks modern and more formal, and wider gaps look looser. What matters most is that every gap is the same.

How wide should a gallery wall be above a sofa?

About two thirds to three quarters of the width of the sofa, so the art feels connected to it without crowding the ends. An 84 inch sofa suits art around 56 to 63 inches wide.

How do I find where to put the nail for each frame?

Measure from the hook, not the top of the frame. Pull the wire tight and measure how far it sits below the top edge. The planner subtracts that wire drop for you and lists each hook as a distance from the left edge of the wall and a height from the floor.

Should I use the outside frame size or the picture size?

Use the outside size of the frame, including the moulding, because that is the space it takes up on the wall. If you measure only the picture or the mat, the gaps will come out wrong.

Can I plan a gallery wall with frames of different sizes?

Yes. Choose Mixed sizes, add a row for each frame size with the number you own, and the planner arranges them into balanced rows. Use Even grid when all the frames are the same size.

How do I hang a gallery wall without making too many holes?

Print the plan, cut paper templates for each frame, and tape them to the wall first. Adjust the arrangement with the tape, and only then mark the hook positions. For light frames in a rental, removable strips avoid holes entirely.

Does the planner work in centimetres?

Yes. Use the ft / in and m / cm buttons at the top of the tool. Everything converts automatically, including the hook positions in the table and on the printed plan.